Tuesday, 30 November 2010

Myddeltons Delicatessen review - Carrot cake and Focaccia to die for at Clerkenwell's Lloyd Baker Street

Myddeltons+Delicatessen+review+Clerkenwell+Lloyd+Baker+Street

Address: 25A Lloyd Baker Street,
London WC1X 9AT
Tel: 020 7278 9192
Nearest Tube station: Angel

Ratings (out of 5 *)
Service charge: N/A
Taste: ***
Service: **
Ambience: **
We first chanced upon Myddlelton’s Delicatessen after getting a coffee from Exmouth Market’s Caravan and was making our way back along Amwell Street. Truth to be told, we were more interested in Unpackaged, an organic grocer diagonally opposite Myddelton’s Delicatessen across the quiet traffic intersection.

Someone mentioned over dinner that Myddelton’s served a mean carrot cake and we made a trip down there the very next day to try it out. She was right. Myddelton’s does serve one of the best carrot cake I’ve ever tasted. Moist, not overly sweet even with whole raisins embedded with bits of carrots, and yet pleasant to the palate.

Well, the single slice of carrot cake hardly count as breakfast so we got a focaccia sandwich as well. And was I glad we did. The focaccia toasted with bacon, tomato and melted French brie (£3.25) was an absolute delight. More so sinking my teeth into the slightly crisp and warm focaccia bread while sunning out in the open on the seating available along the pavement.

Myddeltons+Delicatessen+review+Clerkenwell+Lloyd+Baker+Street+focaccia+sandwich

Of course, Myddelton’s Delicatessen isn’t just about its foccacia bread and carrot cake. There’s a sign outside saying that it does handmade gourmet sandwich (not sure whether it is referring to the foccacia sandwich I just had), luxury hampers and caters as well. While it functions as the local grocer, its shelves are rather haphazardly arranged, you’ll be hard pressed to find the items you’re looking for. On the same note, Myddelton’s service can be a tad spotty but its heart is in the right place.

Either way, I am glad that we found out about Myddelton’s Delicatessen as it serves as a convenient pit stop between our place to Exmouth Market. I can certainly do with a warmly toasted foccacia sandwich every now and then.

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Thursday, 25 November 2010

Morito review Spanish Tapas Exmouth Market - tiny bar packs a punch

Address: 32 Exmouth Market,
London EC1R 4QE
Tel: 020 7278 7007
Nearest Tube station: Angel

Ratings (out of 5 *)
Service charge: 12.5%
Taste: ****
Service: ***
Ambience: ***
“Hey, it’s empty!” Wife was gesturing towards Morito, which seldom is during lunchtimes. These days we are frequent visitors to Exmouth Market. Someone I knew mentioned just the other day that Exmouth Market, with its selection of bars, cafes, eateries and restaurants, is like a mini-London to her. Well, I won’t go so far to say that but that’s not far from the truth either.

Anyway, our attempt to have lunch at Caravan was again thwarted when we popped into Morito that afternoon. Morito, a tapas bar spin-off from Moro along Exmouth Market, is a small setup. Other than a bar counter where food is prepared on the spot, there are a handful of small tables. We were there on a weekday lunchtime and noted that Morito accommodated only a single seating despite the smallish nature of each tapas dish. Well, customers tend to will away their lunch hour deep in conversation over cups of coffee.

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The menu was freshly printed and still piping hot when an Edward Norton lookalike took our orders. Considering the size of Morito’s kitchen, the menu was rather extensive. After our experience at Madrid’s tapas bars, we learnt that the portion of each tapas dish can vary quite a bit so we were a bit hesitant filling up our orders.

Morito+review+Exmouth+Market+Spanish+tapas+salt+cod+croquettes

The salt cod croquettes (£4) was an apt starter though slightly underwhelming. I thought that the slab of mayo that came with it was unnecessary and served only to overwhelm the subtle taste of salt cod. In fact, anything with mayo would end up tasting of only mayo and very little else. Stay away from the mayo if you are ordering this.

Morito+review+Exmouth+Market+Spanish+tapas+lamb+chops

We like the lamb chops (£6) quite a bit though the cumin can be somewhat overpowering at times. Other than that, the meat was aromatic, tender and juicy. It’s one of those dish that you would have to eat with your fingers and lick them clean thereafter.

Morito+review+Exmouth+Market+Spanish+tapas+puntillitas+baby+squid

Next up was puntillitas or baby squid (£6.50). The simple fry up battered dish was one of our favourite tapas and we make it a point to order it whenever possible. Morito did it wonderfully well. Instead of thick caking the squid with batter, the tapas turned out lighter than expected with the squid slightly exposed in some parts. A sprinkle of sea salt and a dash of lemon did the trick for us.

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Quail's eggs and jamon (£4) was another interestingly presented tapas. While the quail’s egg didn’t bring much to the table, the aged jamon added depth to the taste.

Morito+review+Exmouth+Market+Spanish+tapas+malaga+raisins+icecream

Morito serves its tap water, coffee and even the Malaga raisin ice-cream (£2.50) in the same glasses. Nothing wrong with that really. Clean and simple, just the way I like it. While the coffee taste in the ice-cream was unmistakable, there was this light hint of alcohol in the mix that made it a good round up to the light lunch.

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Despite having its kitchen just behind its bar, Morito’s ventilation works surprisingly well. So there’s no need to worry about leaving the place smelling like a barbecue pit. Also, bar and window counter seat makes it suitable for lone customers as well. That said, we left the place feeling still feeling a bit peckish. Though Morito might be the place to have a small bite, you might wish to look elsewhere if you are looking for something more substantial.

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Tuesday, 23 November 2010

Delhi Grill review Islington Chapel Market Indian restaurant - Indian dhaba brought to London

Address: 21 Chapel Market,
London N1 9EZ
Tel: 020 7278 8100
Nearest Tube station: Angel

Ratings (out of 5 *)
Service charge: 12.5%
Taste: ****
Service: ****
Ambience: ****
"Have we ordered too much?" I asked the waiter taking our orders. It's easy to do to that in Delhi Grill, the newest addition to Angel Islington Chapel Market. Its relatively small menu of around twenty items ranging from finger bites like samosa to more substantial meat dishes such as rogan gosht come with prices between £1.50 to under £7.

After Metro’s favourable review, Delhi Grill has been seeing full house almost every evening. Wife had popped in earlier for some takeaway and was rather taken with their vegetable samosa. I went down that very evening for more takeaway (chicken wings and more samosa). Stationed at Delhi Grill’s roti counter was an affable chap who hailed from Nepal. He gave me a quick introduction of how to make a roti and mentioned in passing that he could easily turn one out under a minute. Looking at how well practised he was, I wasn’t surprised.

Delhi+Grill+review+Islington+Chapel+Market+Indian+restaurant

Anyway, we were back that very weekend for a proper dinner and were fortunate to have made a reservation as Delhi Grill was packed again. Frankly, I was really tempted to order all the items on the menu but we did have a bite earlier at Kentish Canteen so that restrained me a bit. We wanted to try out its biryani despite what Metro said about it but it wasn't available on that evening.

Delhi+Grill+review+Islington+Chapel+Market+Indian+restaurant+papadom

That said, its papadoms (£0.50 each) were served warm with an array of condiments that come in a row of small cups. Our favourites were the ones with beetroot and preserved mango.

Delhi+Grill+review+Islington+Chapel+Market+Indian+restaurant+chicken+tikka+sheekb+kebab+lamb+chop

The Delhi grill (£6.50) was meant for two and came with chicken tikkas, sheekh kebabs and lamb chops. The chicken tikkas was absolutely fabulous and very well seasoned – tender, aromatic and spicy. The sheekh kebabs, which I understand to be minced lamb, was flavourful and easily disintegrated in one’s mouth. The lamb chops tasted very much like the kebabs and it seemed that the only difference was that that it came with bone attached. This dish, however, would go really well with a pint of cool beer.

Delhi+Grill+review+Islington+Chapel+Market+Indian+restaurant+vegetable+samosa

The vegetable samosa (£1.50 for two) came with a sizable portion of salad. That alone could very well be a light meal for a small eater. Taking its price into consideration, Delhi Grill’s samosa was way better that those that you get from the dodgy snack bars in Tube stations. Its skin was crisp and deep fried with fresh oil. Stuffed with potatoes, chickpeas and green peas, it was a treat.

We thought that the lamb cubes in Delhi Grill’s rogan gosht was a bit tough for our liking despite it being cooked for over two hours. Its curry gravy on the other hand was marvellous. Creamy and mildly hot, I would have lapped it all up if not for my diet.

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We got a naan (£1.50 each) to go with the rogan gosht. Wife pointed out that the naan, which was cut into quarters and served on a wooden platter, was nicely buttered and could easily be a standalone dish. Compared to roti, naan is heavier on the palate but do try it on its own before dousing it in curry gravy.

Delhi+Grill+review+Islington+Chapel+Market+Indian+restaurant+bhindi

The bhindi (£3.95) – our five a day was one of the dishes recommended by the review we came across and rightly so too. Unlike the ones that we are more familiar with back home, the
ocra dish wasn’t all sticky, which was the reason why I swore off the dish altogether. This one was dry and packed a mild spice. A welcome addition to a portion of rice.

It’s easy to see why Londoners are warming up to Delhi Grill. Loud Hindi Bollywood music thumped in the background engulfed you once you step into the smallish restaurant. A large screen TV showing the accompanying Bollywood movie faces the entrance. The only other place that I have come across with that would be Tiffinbites, which is comparatively sterile.

Delhi Grill’s wall is filled with Indian newspaper cuttings. Torn and tattered, it nevertheless adds to the character to the entire setup. The restaurant also offers free delivery for orders over £12. Wife and I were already making mental notes on what to order as we were leaving the place. Delhi Grill gave us another reason not to cook at home.

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Thursday, 18 November 2010

Royal China review Baker Street always a long queue during weekends

Address: 24-26 Baker Street,
London W1U 7AJ
Tel: 020 7487 4688
Nearest Tube station: Baker Street

Ratings (out of 5 *)
Service charge: 13%
Taste: ***
Service: ***
Ambience: ***
We were in a terrible craving for dim sum over the weekend and decided to pop by Royal China along Baker Street for lunch. While most of the Chinese restaurants in London are congregated in the vicinity of Chinatown, the better ones (save for Four Seasons) seems to be located elsewhere. The same could be said for the better restaurants serving dim sum as well.

Pearl Liang at Paddington, Lotus and Royal China at Canary Wharf, Yauatcha in Soho, Hakkasan near Tottenham Court Road, Phoenix Palace at Baker Street just to name a few.

Interestingly, all except the Royal China accepts reservations during weekends. Naturally, the same goes for the Royal China Baker Street branch. It can be pretty frustrating especially when the weather is miserable and there is a horde of equally frustrated people milling around in the reception with growling stomachs waiting for a table to become available.

Despite that, we turned up shivering and hungry, and waited for a good forty minutes until our number was called. Apparently, there were a whole lot of other parents with buggies and their screamers hungering for a dim sum fix. One thing about Royal China is that other than the easy availability of toddlers’ high chairs, there is also a baby changing room. That probably explained the number of young families among its customers.

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Anyway, we placed our orders within minutes of us settling down. We were that famished. Wife was rather disappointed that Royal China doesn’t serve porridge at all but the egg tarts more than make up for it. The tarts were soft, malleable and didn’t crumble easily. Its custard was consistent and creamy. It would be perfect if they had been served at least lukewarm. In any event, they were way better than the ones we had at Yum Cha.

Royal+China+review+Baker+Street+London+dim+sum+restaurant+beancurd+roll

The stuffed beancurd roll is a vegetarian selection. Filled with bits of carrots, radish and what I could only imagined to be ‘mock prawns’, it was a tad too starchy for our liking.

Royal+China+review+Baker+Street+London+dim+sum+restaurant+charsiew+buns

Charsiew buns, another of our dim sum staple, tasted a bit like those obtainable from supermarket. While they come with good size filling, the charsiew sauce was too thick and sweet for our liking. Some tea was needed to clear our throat after downing these.

Royal+China+review+Baker+Street+London+dim+sum+restaurant+squid+pancake

Wife loved the squid pancakes. Said that it reminded her of the same that she can get back home. I was a bit less enthusiastic about them. While it tasted very light and less oily than expected, I thought they could do with less water chestnuts.

Royal+China+review+Baker+Street+London+dim+sum+restaurant+charsiew+cheung+fun

Charsiew cheung fun a bit of a disappointment. I got a feeling that the dish was left in the kitchen for far too long before it was served. As a result, its skin had hardened with soya sauce soaked through.

Royal+China+review+Baker+Street+London+dim+sum+restaurant+fried+yam+pastry+yujiao

Royal China is the only place I come across where yujiao (fried yam pastry) comes with maize to provide the sweet flavour. That I suppose is better than just adding sugar into yam paste directly. The pastry itself was lightly fried to perfection.

Royal+China+review+Baker+Street+London+dim+sum+restaurant+salted+fish+fried+rice

The diced chicken and salted fish fried rice (£9.20) was an afterthought. We had a good one over at Wing Yip the previous week so we thought of trying the one at Royal China. We thought that Royal China went overboard with dark soya sauce and the rice, which was enough for three small eaters, was a bit too oily.

Royal+China+review+Baker+Street+London+dim+sum+restaurant+custard+buns

Our last burst of fire came in the form of custard buns. While I have absolutely no problem with the buns themselves, there was way too much milk in the custard filling – a direct contrast with the custard tarts.

Royal China charges a 13% service charge. Yes, the staff were efficient but that’s only if you are able to get their attention. My impression of the place running like an well-oiled machine came apart towards the end of our meal when a repeat order was served – thrice. I was really tempted to finish up that extra cheung fun that kept coming back to our table.

That said, it’s easy to see why Royal China remains Londoners’ favourite dim sum place. That’s especially Yauatcha’s disastrous change in menu, which halved its dim sum variety and increased prices for those that remained. Also, most of the dim sum items available are below £3, which is reasonable for dim sum in central London.

Well, I would recommend that you arrive only at around 3pm when the queue is dying down. And if you have not noticed already, most dim sum platters come in threes so I guess that’s the optimal size for your party.

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Monday, 15 November 2010

Aqua Kyoto (London) review - Japanese 5 course shinmai menu

Address: 240 Heddon Street,
London W1B 3BR
Tel: 020 7478 0540
Nearest Tube station: Oxford Street

Ratings (out of 5 *)
Service charge: 12.5%
Taste: ***
Service: ****
Ambience: ****
Aqua Kyoto is one of those restaurants that looks and feels vastly different in the day and night. When we dropped by Aqua Kyoto for its bento lunch set earlier, it was rather docile with a handful of tables filled. But when MC and I turned up during an evening last week, we could hear the music thumping the moment we stepped out of the lift into Aqua Kyoto's reception.

After handing over our coats, we were led through the bar area. While previously empty, the bar area, with its lights dimmed, was packed to the till with office workers winding down at the end of the day. We realised later that many were merely quenching their thirst before sitting down for a proper dinner.

Aqua+Kyoto+review+Regent+Street+Japanese+restaurant

With a gale working up across London, it was rather understandable why Aqua Kyoto's terrace that the main dining area opened up to was comparatively quiet. There were only a few souls braving the plummeting temperature despite the reward of London's skyline. The heaters strategically placed on the terrace didn't quite do the trick.

To celebrate the Japanese new rice harvest (shinmai), Aqua Kyoto's Jordan Sclare is presenting a new autumn shinmai menu that features five rice-themed courses. MC and I were kindly invited by Aqua Kyoto to sample the menu.

Aqua+Kyoto+review+London+Regent+Street+Japanese+restaurant+Shinmai+menu
Starter came in the form of sashimi with rice crackers. The tuna and yellow tail sashimi was mixed with some wasabi (not horse radish) and seaweed presented in rice crackers in the shape of a half cone. The dish requires you to be competent with your chopsticks as savouring each chopped up sashimi cube is the key here. A fork just won't do the job.

Wasabi and seaweed wasn't overwhelming and I could taste the sashimi's freshness. I liked the lightly crisp rice crackers and left that till the last. The dish came with a small glass of mild sake and a "edible stick" (as Kiyo put it). While the sake was very much welcome, the stick, which tasted like a boiled radish didn't bring much to the table. I did enjoy the mountain date though. Being soaked earlier, it easily disintegrated and its taste neutralised that of the sashimi's wasabi.

Aqua+Kyoto+review+London+Regent+Street+Japanese+restaurant+Shinmai+menu
Kiyo, the staff serving us, had explained earlier that all five courses of the Shinmai menu would feature rice and we thought that the foie gras sushi roll epitomised the menu. The sushi rice was warm (which should be the case from my understanding) and sticky, not overly so but just enough to cling on to the insides of my mouth. Marvelous. The roll, however, tasted less of foie gras but more of onion and wasabi.

Aqua+Kyoto+review+London+Regent+Street+Japanese+restaurant+Shinmai+menu
MC dug into the beautifully presented quail tempura first and immediately cautioned me to go easy on the dip, which turned out to be barbecue sauce. Kiyo assured us that the fried rice noodle was edible but in all honestly, it was barely for it was all clumped together and boy was it tough. I tried wrestling with it briefly using my bare hands but gave up after bits of the rice noodle landed all over except in my mouth.

I thought that the tempura itself was more batter than anything else. Kiyo did mention that the batter was made of rice flour (instead of flour), which resulted in a heavier batter, and it was an acquired taste (think soy milk). That probably explained why a strong sauce (barbecue in this case) was needed to add some colour to the taste.

Aqua+Kyoto+review+London+Regent+Street+Japanese+restaurant+Shinmai+menu

The seafood fried rice ticked the right boxes - it has got this heavenly aroma, with generous bits of crustaceans and juicy sliced mushrooms. Pity that the garlic was burnt though.

Aqua+Kyoto+review+London+Regent+Street+Japanese+restaurant+Shinmai+menu
Of the five courses, I enjoyed the dessert the most. Sweet rice rolled into the sushi rolls with preserved fruit in the middle. The rice rolls, with a mixture of coconut and sesame seeds based, could very well fill your stomach if the previous four courses hadn't already. In fact, they reminded me of the Malay sweet pastries that are very much loved back home.

Curiously, I wasn't able to find any detail of Aqua Kyoto's shinmai menu online or for that matter Aqua London's website. That said, the shinmai menu is available between mid-Oct to mid-Nov so you'll have to act fast if you wish to sample the menu before it's taken down.

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Saturday, 13 November 2010

The Peasant review - Clerkenwell gastropub with a feel good factor

Address: 240 St John Street,
London EC1V 4PH
Tel: 020 7490 1089
Nearest Tube station: Angel

Ratings (out of 5 *)
Price: below £15 pp
Service charge: 12.5%
Taste: ***
Service: ***
Ambience: ****
“What’s crisp lamb fry?” Wife asks unwittingly. “It’s lambs’ testicles,’ the guy serving us at The Peasant answers in a deadpan face. “Oh…”.

I consider myself rather adventurous when it comes to food. I love pig’s blood (it’s really like iron packed soft tofu). Pig’s intestine comes a close second. Frankly it goes well with rice. I don’t mind chicken feet especially after I got over the image of a particular scene in a cannibalism film I stumbled upon as a kid. I’ve even experimented with sheep’s brain and find the squishy nature quite objectionable.

But I draw the line at testicles or any reproductive organs for that matter.

The+Peasant+review+Clerkenwell+gastropub+Islington+cup

Wife is looking rather disconcerted at this point and I am trying not to think about the eunuch lamb. I get a feeling that the man hovering over us is enjoying every single bit of this. Wife ends up with fish and chips while I go for the burger. If I am to have any testicles, I will want that meshed up in a meat patty.

After getting over the initial trauma, Wife picks up the menu again and asks, “What’s a North Sea sprat?” I held my breath. “It’s a type of sardine,” came the swift answer.” Really, that’s it? With a name like sprat it could very well be the eyeballs of some sea monster that never sees the sunlight till it is dragged to the surface by a trawler.

The+Peasant+review+Clerkenwell+gastropub+Islington+ale+battered+sprat

Anyway, we go for that and it is delish. The ale-battered North Sea sprats (£5.50) with some paprika sprinkled on it is finger smacking good when we dipped it into the accompanying mayo. The size of a regular fat chip, this is a must order even if you are coming in just for a pint.

The+Peasant+review+Clerkenwell+gastropub+Islington+fish+and+chips

Fish and chips is a bit pricy at £10.50. Wife is abit two minds about the grubby looking peas. While it shows that it’s not scooped out from a pre-packed container, it certainly doesn’t look appetizing. For that price, you get a whole lot of skin on chips, which is somewhat over fried. There is so much chips to go around that the second person can just get by ordering just the fish. The fish itself is fine but nothing to shout about really.

The+Peasant+review+Clerkenwell+gastropub+Islington+burger

I go for The Peasant burger (£10.50). It comes with cheese, bacon, chilli relish, tomato and more skin on chips. While the melted cheese over the patty is a delight, they go overboard with the mayo that simply drowns out everything else. For what it’s worth, The Peasant burger features the thickest patty that I have every come across.

The Peasant has got this good feel of a local pub. Apparently, a good section of the pub, which boosts a sizable seating area on the first floor, was reserved for an engagement party that day. Towards the end of our meal, the bride trooped in with her mates and promptly showed her ring to the guy who was serving us earlier. He promptly put on the ring much to the amusement of everyone.

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Not only that, The Peasant’s décor reminds us of Old Queen’s Head. It is eclectic with a tinge of quirkiness. It is, in short, the kind of pub that you’ll like to have in your neighbourhood.

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Monday, 8 November 2010

Masala Zone review - Islington Indian cuisine in full spice mode

Address: 80 Upper Street, London N1 0NU
Tel: 020 7359 3399
Nearest Tube station: Angel

Ratings (out of 5 *)
Price: below £15 pp
Service charge: 10%
Taste: ****
Service: ***
Ambience: **
I’ve got this unwavering belief about food and that is that the enjoyment of it depends on a great deal other than the amount of care put into preparing it, the freshness of the ingredients and even the pedigree of the chef preparing it.

I’m sure you can attest to how a fantastic dinner can be spoilt by a rude waiter, a noisy toddler bawling in the next table or simply the fact that you just had a bad day. That’s why I’m always a bit sceptical when I read about reviews that are a tad extreme. Morgan M is a case in point. We left the one Michelin star restaurant feeling more than disappointed at the sorbet theme meal.

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That said, it often helps when you don’t actually know much about the cuisine itself. That way, you wouldn’t have any preconception of how the food should be prepared and focus on whether the dish set in front of you actually tastes good. People have been telling me that Giraffe’s Malaysian laksa taste good (“It is the best laksa I’ve ever tasted in my life,” the person who has never set foot in Southeast Asia told me). Well, I guess my sole issue with Giraffe’s laksa is that it is served with green curry, which doesn’t quite taste like green curry. Anyway, just in case you are wondering, the point I’m trying to make here is that so long that you like a particular restaurant or dish, don’t let the purists get to you. But just in case, check out the what the purist recommends as well.

I know as much about Indian food as I know about Russian cuisine. Well, other than the roti prata that I have back home, I am not really into Indian food. In fact, I have more Indian food in London for the past three years than I have all my life back home (not counting the pratas of course). I made no secret that I like Gufaa and Feanor was aghast when he knew about that. He pointed me to Masala Zone, a couple of doors down Islington Upper Street.

Now, I’m a fan of Masala Zone and am not ashamed to flaunt it.

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One thing about coming from Singapore is that I tend to equate spiciness with chilli. If it ain’t hot, it’s ain’t spicy. That, of course, can’t be further from the truth. Indian cuisine has got this knack of packing different degrees of spiciness all within a single dish.

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Masala Zone’s Delhi samosa chaat (£4.50) is a case in point. This ‘street food’ looks deceivingly simple with mainly yogurt, tamarind chutney and a heavily spiced warm samosa packed with peas, raisins and nuts. Go on the yogurt first, dip into the tamarind chutney before digging into the samosa to get the full flavour.

Masala+Zone+review+Islington+Indian+food+Chicken+thali

Masala Zone offers a £9 lunch set that comes with a chicken thali with a starter (I went for the samosa). The butter chicken curry that comes with the thali though spicy is hardly (chilli) hot but that suited me just fine. Love the papadoms and chutney that came with it though the cabbage and potatoes was a bit bland.

Wife thought that the chapatti was too floury and I agree. But it was handy polishing off the chick pea curry. Then again, you might want to go with rice instead of chapatti if you can’t handle the flour.

Interestingly, the service staff is much warmer during dinnertime. It might be that there was only one lady serving the entire restaurant during lunch and she seemed rather harried. On a separate note, you wouldn’t want to leave visiting the loo till the last minute though. It takes some navigating through a red hued corridor, one wrong turn and you might end up in the back lane.

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Wednesday, 3 November 2010

Edokko review - privacy in the Holborn Japanese restaurant

Address: 50 Red Lion Street
London WC1R 4PF
Tel: 020 7242 3490
Nearest Tube station: Holborn

Ratings (out of 5 *)
Price: below £30 pp
Service charge: 12.5%
Taste: ***
Service: ****
Ambience: ****
There are only a couple of Japanese restaurants in London that greet you in Japanese when taking a reservation. Mitsukoshi and Edokko are two of them. While Mitsukoshi are often filled with Japanese tourists heading to Mitsukishi shopping centre along Regent Street (I wonder why the Japanese would go to a Japanese mall in London), Edokko, located quite a distance at a quieter part of Holborn, is more subdued.

Unassuming and discreet would aptly describe Edokko. One could easily walk past the restaurant along Red Lion Street without noticing it. It’s not exactly the place where you would ‘walk-in’ for a meal. The lack of publicity probably contributed to why Eddoko was barely half filled whenever we visited. Which is just as well for Edokko, in my opinion, is a hidden gem.

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Food aside, Edokko’s strength lies in the subtlety in its ambience. You would almost sense the zen in the restaurant the moment you step right into the restaurant. That’s only on the ground floor. The real deal lies on its first floor. Tatami mats lined the raised floor with sunken in foot rests.

Erm, there’s no holes for your feet

“Erm, but there is no holes to put your feet,” a staff replied when I requested for the only private room Edokko has. This one private room comes without any foot rests. Perfect for those looking for a bit of privacy and don’t mind sitting cross-legged.

We got Edokko’s ‘special dinner set’ when we first visited it two years back. It used to go for £35 per person (min 2 persons). This time round, we noted that the price has increased to £40. Having taken a bite earlier, the three of us decided to go ala carte instead.


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Shake chazuke (£4.80) – green tea with rice on grilled salmon and imago chazuke (£7.80) – green tea with rice on grilled eel were rather interesting. Both came with pots of green tea, which were promptly emptied into the bowl of rice when they were brought to the table. It reminded me of some fish porridge that I came across in a food court in Singapore – fish on rice with a ladle of fish soup over it. I thought that the tea took the edge off the salmon and eel. A stomach filler but rather underwhelming.

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Wife was raving about Edokko’s nabeyaki udon (£13). According to her, Edokko’s is one of the few places that serves it in London. Other than a single strand of udon, she refused to share it with me. It must be really good then. It could be that London was hit by a heavy downpour not to mention a chilly wind that night but the warm flavoured soup did cheer her up quite a bit. The udon? Its texture rivals that at Koya’s.

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We were quite disappointed with the stewed belly pork (£6.80). It came across as a tad tough and heavily flavoured with aniseed.

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The agedashi tofu (£6) was of the correct variety; we were understandably paranoid after our experience at Crane and Tortoise. I thought that the tofu dish was overpriced compare to say the rice dishes. Will give this a skip if I were to return.

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It was getting a bit warm in the room and the Little One was kicking up a fuss when the softshell crab and tuna roll were served so I couldn’t really recall exactly how they turned out. But Wife said later that they weren’t spectacular so I guess I didn’t miss much.

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While we weren’t awed by Edokko’s food this time round, having a private room (on tatami mats, no less) to ourselves was a treat. Imagine enjoying a hot broth with green tea and sesame ice-cream for desserts in the dead of winter. That’s definitely something worth looking forward to.

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